Silk is often thought of as a naturally organic fabric since it originates from silkworms spinning their cocoons. However, not all silk on the market is genuinely organic or healthy for you. The truth is, there is no official government certification that guarantees a piece of silk is “certified organic.” After the raw silk fiber is produced, various treatments and processes can make it less organic than you might expect.
Some producers take extra steps to ensure their silk is more environmentally friendly and ethical by using wild silkworms instead of the domesticated Bombyx mori silkworms. This type of silk is called “peace silk” or “vegetarian silk,” and it has a slightly different texture and color often a darker cream shade when raw and it doesn’t absorb natural dyes as easily as farmed silk.
Another variety, muga silk, comes from semi-domesticated moths. This silk is prized for its natural golden amber color and is never bleached or dyed. However, muga silk production involves killing the silkworm before it emerges, so it’s not considered ethical by some consumers. Due to its rarity and unique color, muga silk tends to be more expensive.
Then there’s eri silk, made by the eri silkworm. This silk is almost white after weaving and has an important ethical distinction the caterpillars aren’t killed in the harvesting process. Instead of being reeled onto spools like traditional silk, eri silk is spun more like cotton or wool, giving it a different texture and feel.
One factor that adds to the organic value of silk is whether it was hand-loomed. Hand-looming is a traditional and sustainable method, especially in countries like India, where over six million people are employed in this eco-friendly industry. Hand-loomed silk requires no electricity or heavy machinery, making it a greener option.
Keep in mind that organic silk can be pricier than synthetic fibers. Some people may also have allergies to certain types of silk, especially if they react to the proteins from the silkworms’ diet or if the silk still contains sericin the natural gum that surrounds silk fibers. If silk hasn’t been de-gummed to remove sericin, it could cause skin irritation for sensitive individuals.
Even silk that starts out organic can become non-organic if synthetic dyes are used. Silk absorbs dyes very well, resulting in vibrant colors, but many synthetic dyes contain harsh chemicals that can trigger allergic reactions. Some manufacturers use eco-friendly dyes, but it’s nearly impossible to tell just by looking at the fabric.
The best organic silks often come in their natural, un-dyed state. These are typically wild silks or spun silks, which you can recognize by their natural shades and textures. Be cautious of “weighted silk,” which is silk treated with metallic salts like lead, barium, tin, or chromium to make the fabric heavier. Weighted silk feels noticeably heavier and some of these compounds can be harmful.
Ultimately, it’s up to you as the buyer to decide how “organic” you want your silk to be. Avoid silk that’s heavily dyed with synthetic chemicals or weighted with metals if you want a purer, healthier product. Natural-colored, hand-spun or hand-loomed silks usually offer the most organic benefits and are better for both you and the environment.
